BANANA BREAD

FL0004: PLASTIQUE
July 2, 2023

Caution: Unsuitable for boats.

Goal: A base recipe for infinite exploration. So far it’s seen coconut, pandan extract, banana jam, walnuts, walnut oil, sour cream, unripe bananas, fermenting-borderline-decomposing bananas, jaggery, buckwheat flour, and the valence shell of the spice cabinet. Durian beckons, against better judgment.

Point of origin: Banana Bread by T. A. Spencer

Yield: 1 loaf

YOU WILL NEED

DRY THINGS

  • 1 1/2 cups (180 grams) all-purpose flour (freshly milled makes a difference)

  • 1 teaspoon baking soda, pressed to remove tiny clumps

  • a demitasse spoonful of cinnamon

  • 1/2 teaspoon salt (kosher if you like to argue; sea salt if you’re romantic)

WET THINGS

  • 2 cups (475 grams or so) ripe banana mashed to a pulp (4-5 bananas)

  • 1/2 cup (105 grams) dark brown sugar

  • a tiny glug of molasses or date syrup (1-2 teaspoons; optional but nice)

  • 6 tablespoons melted butter, oil, or a mix (if using a strong oil like walnut, temper it with something neutral)

  • 2 large eggs, beaten

  • 2 teaspoons vanilla extract, or spicebush if you can find it in the park

 

WHAT TO DO

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees and line a loaf pan with a parchment sling (oil or butter the pan first so the paper stays in place). Any pan on the 8-to-9 by 4-to-5 inch spectrum will work. Avoid dark nonstick metal if at all possible (here and always); it tends to scorch the edges.

Whisk the dry things in one bowl. Whisk the wet things in another bowl. Fold the dry and wet things together until no streaks or pockets of flour remain. Try not to overmix.

Pour the batter into the pan and bake for 60-65 minutes, until the center has the slightest spring. It should feel alive but tender, like it just woke up. On an instant-read thermometer, 195-200 degrees in the center means it’s ready to come out. If signals are mixed, give it two more minutes.

Let the bread rest in its pan for at least one hour at room temp—preferably two—to wind down from the stress of the hot oven and complete all the reactions of baking. It will slice most easily and its flavor will be most complex once completely cool.